March 07, 2006

京都 2005 - 29 Kameyama-koen - Rakushisha - Hokyo-in

[251105] even more Arashiyama....coming out of Okochi Sanso, two NHK TV station trucks were spotted down e road (below left). e curious cat followed e trail of wires leading from one of them to e end of e road & into Kameyama-koen, & all e way along an uphill path to a viewpoint occupied by NHK cameramen & sound crew & their equipment, watched over by a park warden (below right):

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a section of e Torokko scenic railway that runs along e Hozu river & gorge can be seen from this viewpoint, & e signboard (above right) indicates e timings at which e trains make their appearance.

what e NHK cameras were trained on:

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e very spot on e opposite bank of e Katsura-gawa where e cat was standing earlier in e day! =P so glad that it wasn't nuts enough to try climbing all e way up to Daihikakuji temple - it is really that high up above e river!

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very fairy tale-ishly beautiful =))

a mutant branch of red (below) in a tree of yellow:

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retracting its steps back past Okochi Sanso, e cat continued deeper into Arashiyama past Jojakkoji temple, & to e-place-with-e-very-poetic-name, 洛柿舎 Rakushisha aka. e House of Fallen Persimmons. Kyorai Mukai, e 17th century haiku poet who lived here, had wanted to sell e ripe persimmons on e tree, only to find that they had been blown to e ground by strong wind during e night, hence e name:

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[2, 4] e vegetable fields directly in front of Rakushisha [3, 7] Rakushisha, with e persimmon tree standing at e entrance, & e bamboo hat & straw raincoat hanging outside e house, as if Kyorai were still at home [5] a restaurant near Rakushisha [6] roof tile shop [9] Cosmos flowers

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[2] tourists gathered outside e entrance to Rakushisha [3] Cosmos flowers nodding in e breeze [4, 6, 8] a beautiful place to work in [5] ceramic persimmons with 'Rakushisha' carved on them for sale [7] a thatched roof house [9] masks for sale - Japanese can make their goblins & demons look so cute =P

more wandering through e neighbourhood to get to 宝筐院 Hokyo-in temple, another of Arashiyama's momiji spots. unlike e many big fat temple complexes visited on this trip, Hokyo-in is a really small & cosy place, & not mentioned in most English language travel guidebooks (kinda impossible to list most of Kyoto's hundreds of temples & shrines anyway). e cat had come across photos of e maple-lined path through e temple grounds on e temple's homepage, & decided to check out e real thing:

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e main temple building:

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e maples:

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interesting plant:

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cat instinct at work:

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it was late afternoon, e sun was starting to set (sunset at ~16:45PM), & e cat was starting to think *tweet* about dinner options ;)

Hokyo-in at dusk:

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walking along e north bank of e Katsura-gawa in e darkness, e cat came across a big fat brightly-lit omiyage store with one of e most complete selections of Kyoto souvenirs, both edible & inedible. across from it was a large 定食屋 teishoku-ya (e type of restaurant that serves e standard Japanese set meal fare) running on e coupon system common in cafeterias here, where you place your order & make payment in exchange for a coupon before hunting for a seat & waiting for your food to be ready.

e restaurant was so huge it had two separate identical window displays of plastic food models, one at each of its two entrances, which gives you an idea of e size of e crowds it packs in at peak hours:

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e restaurant & omiyage store appear to be run by e same company, & are strategically located directly in front of e coach park to catch e flood of tourists pouring out of e tour buses.

cat food:

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it was long after dark when e cat headed off in e general direction of JR Arashiyama station (roughly eastwards, parallel to e river, & then roughly northwards, perpendicular to e river, based on e cat's 'internal sense of direction') thinking that would it work out e way there somehow in e dim yellow street lighting....

but on turning away from e river, it found itself walking through some residential area without any street lighting. & realised that it had left its Maglite behind in e hostel. & that while cats can see in e dark, reading maps & tiny unfamiliar Japanese font is a challenge when there isn't even moonlight to help....*oops*

but there were little kids on e street, which made e place seem a lot safer, & e cat crossed a set of railway tracks (Keifuku? there are 3 railways in this area, all with tracks running roughly east-west) that seemed to agree with what e cat had seen on its maps earlier on....& then street lamps appeared again *YAY* & e (by now) familiar washi paper stationery store that e cat had popped into on e way to e JR station ~9 days ago (after visiting Tenryuji temple) came into view =)

just as it was about to walk on, e cat spotted a toy store across e street that it had not noticed before....& kooning on a glass shelf in e store window was a furry 4-pawed whiskered counterpart with a tail & ears e colour of slightly burnt toast....couple of minutes later, two cats walked out of e toy store & down e street towards e JR station, stopping only for a quick sniff at e BBQ-ed sanma fish impaled on sticks stuck around a pile of hot coals in a wooden bucket of sand at a roadside stall, before travelling by JR train back to Kyoto station on a single ticket ;)

back in e 6-bedder dorm room at K's House, complete with pink Hello Kitty towel belonging to a room mate:

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e cat's bunk:

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now occupied by e its new friend from e Arashiyama toy store:

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e 6-bed dorms have lockers inside them, but you hafta bring your own padlock or buy one from e reception:

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guests in other room types hafta use e lockers at e reception. e interiors of e rooms in K's House are all done up in blue - e cat's favourite colour =))

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*mrrreoww* kooning is serious business for cats, hence e brows furrowed in deep concentration ;)

[ filed under: thewanderingstraycat + kyoto_2005 + japanese1 + cats1 + nature1 + catfood ]

March 05, 2006

京都 2005 - 28 Okochi Sanso

[251105] deeper into Arashiyama - e bamboo grove around Nonomiya-jinja:

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those who caught Memoirs of a Geisha or Sayuri (e Japanese version) might recall e scene where Zhang Ziyi's character was driven in a black car along this path (above, bottom left).

at one end of e bamboo grove is 大河内山荘 Okochi Sanso, a villa belonging to e late silent-movie actor Okochi Denjiro (1898-1962):

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emerging from e rather dark & gloomy entrance to e grounds of e villa (above left), you encounter a little 'clearing' surrounded by short maples & carefully pruned shrubs (above middle). as you mill around with other visitors, all wondering what else is there to this place that cost you 1000 yen each to enter, you spy a tiny narrow path (above right) in between the shrubs....

which leads uphill & through a little gate, partially hidden by the surrounding greenery:

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passing through e gate, you arrive at a rather plain-looking building that is off-limits to visitors:

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still wondering what exactly is there to see....& then you look to your right:

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e red maple + yellow ginkgo killer combo again =)) neat wooden benches covered with red felt cloth (above right) have been provided for stunned visitors to sit down, gawk skyward & slowly recover from being overwhelmed by e sight....when all seated facing e tree, e people look as if they're attending some outdoor lecture conducted by e ginkgo =P

e maple up close, with a little stone torii hiding shyly beneath:

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ginkgo leaves scattered generously at e maple's feet:

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heavenward....

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ginkgo branches holding out their hundreds of yellow fan-shaped leaves as they reach for e sun are just so graceful =)

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e view across north Kyoto, with Hiei-zan & Daimonji-yama in e distance:

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imagine living here, & enjoying this view with a cup of sencha while sitting on e tatami floor of e plain-looking building, listening to e light tinkle of furin (windchimes) dancing in e breeze....& watching e morning sun rise from behind e Higashiyama mountains & bring e city below to life, cloud shadows dance across e hills in e afternoon, & e daimonji burn on e slopes of Daimonjiyama on e summer night of 16 August =)

moving on....

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Okochi Sanso has beautiful pines =)

e Higashiyama mountains from e second viewpoint:

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nature's gold:

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e muted colours of e little Zen garden (above) with e usual green moss, grey rocks & white gravel allows your eyes some rest before e next assault of colour lying just ahead....

here goes:

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& there's more:

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as your eyes try to recover, Daihikakuji appears in e distance:

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& you realise that you are standing in e section of Okochi Sanso that is directly above Kameyama-koen, which explains e people below (& outside e boundary of e villa) enjoying e same view of Daihikakuji & e Katsura-gawa:

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e path continues on....

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....to e third viewpoint:

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Kyoto Tower once again (above), & Hiei-zan (below):

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e last section of e villa is a small 'courtyard' of sorts with pictures of Okochi Denjiro taken from his movies:

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staff of e villa (below left) frantically whisking up bowls of frothy green tea for visitors to enjoy in e garden (below right):

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ending e visit with e green tea & sweet that is served to all visitors:

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more Arashiyama coming up....

[ filed under: thewanderingstraycat + kyoto_2005 + japanese1 + nature1 ]